Return to Madrid and back to LA

Civil War

Our Spanish Civil War Guide

Cocktail Hour

Raise a glass to The Cathedral of the Sea

Choose your fish

Best Oyster Ever

Typical Gothic Quarter Street

Back of our hotel, the Old Roman Wall

Cathy and I have been fascinated by the Spanish Civil war. We have read many books about it. Barcelona was heavily damaged as the various factions fought it out. There were Communists, Left wing groups, right wing groups etc. It is all terribly complicated. I always knew there were Anarchist, but I was surprised to find out that the Anarchist were a political party. I would of thought of them all is being independent actors not organized at all. Now I know.

 

We took a tour of the some of the locations where the fighting happened. George Orwell of course fought and wrote about it. Our guide was unbelievably knowledgeable about the Civil War and as we walked through living history, he explained it all to us. He was very keen on saying that history repeats itself and drawing parallels between what happened then in Spain and what is happening now in the US. It is quite chilling and depressing.

 

I won’t detail Cathy’s adventure as she was attached by a giant cockroach as she was in a bathroom at a restaurant. We won’t return to that restaurant.

 

At the end of the tour, we went shopping for gifts. We walked through the Gothic Quarters maze of streets guided by Google Maps. It is amazing the maps are accurate in this maze. Tonight, we walked through the maze again to a fish dinner at Estimar, an excellent fish restaurant. We had probably the biggest and juiciest oyster we have ever had. Among other fish delights we had Turbo which is almost never available in Los Angeles. We then navigated ourselves back to our hotel. Tomorrow, we take the bullet train back to Madrid.

 

We feel more comfortable navigating in Barcelona, and it is a beautiful city with gorgeous architecture. Unfortunately, it is overrun by tourists. Our hotel, The Mercer, is an architectural gem located in the middle of the Gothic Quarter. 

 

Oye, the Stairs

 

Painting in our Room, "Trying to Poop"

Typical Gothic Quarter Street

Dining Room at our Hotel with Roman Walls

Cathedral of the Sea

Best Potato Brava Yet

Today was a typical vacation day that reminds us to go with the flow. We started off walking from our hotel down the narrow twisting streets of the Gothic Quarter. We arrived at The Archives of The Crown Of Aragon and walked through an excellent exhibit of the emancipation of women and their powerful impact in the political and culture of Spain and the EU.

 

From there we went to the Juan March Museum where you could see the actual Roman walls that surrounded this ancient city.

 

We then went to a tour of The Cathedral of the Sea. This church was built in the 14^th Century. The story has been fictionalized in a best-selling book: “The Cathedral of the Sea”, Which we recommend. The tour guide was great. The only problem was the tour took us up to the roof that was over 150 steps up a very narrow twisting stair. We weren’t used to climbing that many stairs. At the top of the stairs, we were on the roof of the Church were great views of Barcelona. We were both exhausted from the climb, then realized we had to climb down another 150 narrow steps. This church is the most beloved church in Barcelona, but really isn't a Cathedral which by definition is the home of a Bishop. This really is just a parish church, but the Catholics of Barcelona love it more than the real Cathedral. Read the book to find out why!

 

For some reason it was impossible to get a cab to return to the hotel. Literally dozens of them passed us, but none stopped for us. It was extremely stressful. Finally, a taxi did pick us up and we took it to the entrance to the Gothic Quarter. He refused to take us any farther into it and wouldn’t take any money for the relatively short ride. He dropped us off at the entrance then Google Maps guided us to the hotel.

 

We were supposed to go to dinner at a nearby restaurant, but they called to cancel saying they were closed due to an emergency. We decided to eat Tapas at the Hotel. We were glad to just hang out in this beautiful hotel. We had drinks, Face-timed Barbara and Kiesha (with Parsifal and Layne) then went to our Tapas dinner. I finally had the best Potatoes Brava I have yet in Spain!

Everyone experiences cities differently, but we definitely like Madrid better than Barcelona. On our previous visit to Barcelona, years ago, it didn't feel so touristy and crowded. Now I guess everyone wants to come here.

From Madrid to Barcelona

On the Train

Shopping

Typical narrow street in Gothic Quarter

Soupy Paella with Lobster and Shrimp

Today was one of those weird days that only happens on vacation and you just need to go with the flow.

 

We checked out of our hotel in Madrid and taxied to the train station. We our tickets pre-printed for the ride on the bullet train to Barcelona. We went through security and two different scanning’s of the QR code on our tickets and walked down to the train. Our ticket said we were in car 16. Strange because as we walked along the platform, we realized there were only 8 cars on this train. We were confused to say the least.

There were no agents on the platform who I could ask for assistance. I was at the last car, which was where the train engineer sat. I asked him and he looked at the ticket and said “there must be a mistake – go to car 6". We did that and there were no seat tickets on our ticket that we could find (actually there were, we found out later). We said screw it, and just sat down. Two guys came up and were very nice but said we were in their seats, they checked with someone and said we should go check with another person in a different car. To shorten this tale, we eventually again said screw it and took 2 seats in 1^st class.

 

On arriving in Barcelona, we took a taxi to the Mercer Hotel. It is in the Gothic Quarter, which is composed on narrow, winding twisting streets out of the Middle Ages. The hotel is stylish beyond belief. It is built into the old Roman Walls of Barcelona yet looks like something out of Architectural Digest. The service however sucks!

 

We are amazed at how the tourists have overrun Barcelona. We have been here before and it was beautiful and charming. We didn’t feel that today. It is like tourists outnumber the people who live here. The architecture is still beautiful but the buildings house lots of gift stores, McDonalds etc.

 

We had dinner by the sea and had a new dish for us: Soupy Paella. Apparently, they make the Paella with fish broth and when it is completed add additional broth to make it almost a soup. We had the Paella with Lobster and Shrimp. The restaurant, Can Fisher is located along the seafront. It was a warm night with a full moon overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. It was a beautiful setting watching the people stroll and ride by enjoying the night. We only wish that Barcelona hadn’t lost it charm for us.

 

Relax, Read and Pack

They got the Martini down!

Paella

This was our final day in Madrid before heading to Barcelona. We decided to take it completely easy. Cathy had her hair done, I went for a shave. I finished the book I was reading and started another one. This one the essence of just relaxing.
 
We had one chore, we aren’t taking all of our luggage to Barcelona on the Bullet Train, we are leaving some behind at the hotel. We will return here next Tuesday. So we need to sort out what we wanted to take and what we would leave behind.
 
We did go to a wine store to buy a bottle of our new favorite wine to bring home to LA. 
 
Soon the day was shot and it was time for a Martini. I must be a good instructor because without my guidance the bartender produced a perfect Gin Martini. (I feel Gin Martini is a redundant phrase but Vodka lovers would disagree).
 
We went out to a Paella restaurant we had been to on a previous trip. It wasn’t as good as we remembered. Proving the adage “You can’t go home again” is true.
Other than the disappointment over dinner, it was a great relaxing day.
 
Tomorrow on to Barcelona.

A Walk in the Park on Cathy's Birthday

Monument to Alfonso XII in Retiro Park

Crystal Palace

Q: What's the collective noun for a bunch of Turtles
A: Bale of Turtles

Peacock Alert

Porcini Mushrooms

Fabulous Charred Piquillo Peppers

The best Birthday Cheesecake!

It was Cathy’s 75^th birthday! She decided she wanted to spend it in Retiro Park. The park is enormous with many monuments, lakes fountains, etc. We knew we wanted to find the Crystal Palace (similar to the one in London and San Francisco). There were all kinds of birds, Turtles, fish etc. We simply wondered aimlessly and every so often sat on a shaded bench and just enjoyed the day in the park.

 

We eventually returned to our hotel. I told Cathy I wanted to go for a walk but had an alternative plan. I walked to the restaurant we were going to (Roostiq) and informed them it was Cathy’s 75^th birthday we were celebrating and requested they surprise her with Champagne when we arrived.

 

I returned to our hotel, and we had drinks. Surprisingly a fourth bartender was manning the bar and he created a decent martini, I am happy to report. After FaceTiming Barbara, we walked up to Restaurant Roostiq. The Champagne arrived as requested. The food was once again fabulous, but we felt rushed. Perhaps it was because we had an 8pm reservation and they wanted to turn the table for the 10pm crowd. It is probably wise in Spain to always request 10pm reservations for dinner!

 

We had two new dishes tonight that were both exceptional: Charred Piquillo Peppers and Secreto iberico (an incredibly well seasoned and cooked pork). I am sure we will never be able to get that cut of meat in LA. As to the Charred Piquillo Peppers, perhaps we can start with bottled Piquillo peppers and see if we can replicate the recipe. We finished with what is the best Cheesecake ever enhanced by a birthday candle. We walked back to our hotel having celebrated a major birthday in appropriate style. I am still amazed at going out to eat at so many different restaurants all within walking distance of our hotel. If I haven't previously mentioned it, in Madrid we stay at The Principal Hotel, located in the Cheuca neighborhood of Madrid. We need to thank Jaimie for the recommendation.

Horns of a Dilemma

Matadero Cultural Complex

Plaza Mayor the Center of Madrid

Peeled Tomatoes Olive Oil and Salt

Pistou unbelievably wonderful

Dessert made from Cream of Porcini Mushrooms

 

Proper Gin Martini with Steak

We started the day going to Maradoro.It is a huge and I mean huge cultural center. It is a repurpose of the old slaughterhouses that prepared meat for Madrid.
 
It is a gigantic complex that houses all kinds of cultural events: Movie, Operas, art installations, etc. It is made of beautiful brick buildings that I am sure are over 100 years old.
 
On a previous visit to Madrid, we had visited Matadero and wanted to return to see what was currently on exhibit. The had a virtual reality exhibit on the destruction of Pompei by the eruption of Mt. Edna. The whole virtual reality thing to us seemed hokey but we decided what the hell, lets do it. I am very glad we did.
 
There were three different types of virtual reality exhibits. In the first you were seated randomly on cushions and the walls and ceiling appeared to move as images were projected on all sides of you. There was accompanying sound and you felt like you were in Pompei as the damn mountain blew its top. It was disconcerting as you were transported through the city. We had experienced other virtual reality films like this, and it was definitely superior.
 
We then entered another room where we were seated on chairs that could swivel 360 degrees. Gogles were placed on our heads and we were transported into the coliseum to see gladiators fight. You could turn your chair and look up or down and the reality was amazing.
 
The third experience was the most amazing. We went into a room and a headset was placed on us. We then walk around going through a Pompei house. Everything was virtual. When I looked at Cathy all I could see was not her head but a roman statures face. We held hand and walked, as you approached a door or a wall you didn’t know if you could walk through it or it was real. It was totally unnerving.
 
I expect that the new Apple Virtual Headsets will not be successful (but I won’t sell pf our Apple stock) but now I feel I know what they are trying to achieve. It truly was amazing.
 
After our virtual reality we to Plaza Mayor the Virtual heart of Madrid. This large Plaza to us was a crummy tourist spot. Even the famous food court now served mainly fast take out food to the tourists. We quickly returned to our hotel. 
 
At cocktail hour, I ordered my usual Martini, but decided to watch its construction. Unbelievable after all our sessions he started to make it with Vodka. When I pointed out his error, he apologized and made me a proper one with Gin and very little Vermouth. We had some left-over exceptional steak and we used it as an appetizer.
 
We ordered some wine to take to our room and called Barbara, things are well in San Francisco.
 
From the hotel we then walked to Angelita. The wait staff all wear the most amazing leather aprons and I really want to buy one, but unfortunately they don't sell them! This is MUST restaurant if you are in Madrid. They are super serious about both wine and food. It is also a very casual restaurant with no pretense. Among our favorites was Tomatoes, peeled and salted with olive oil. So simple and so perfect. The absolute best Pistou we have ever tasted was a delicious course. We loved it. If only we could make it at home. For dessert we had an amazing concoction made with cream of porcini! We only ordered it because we couldn’t conceive of a dessert made with porcini mushrooms.
 
We then walked back to our hotel. How wonderful it is to just step out from where we are staying and have such amazing adventures.
 
What is the Dilemma? Do we cancel one of our dinner reservations to return to one of these wonderful restaurants for another visit, or continue on with our existing plans?

Spies and Flamenco

The Statue Uncovered Today

Vertical Garden 

These twenty-four "possible" portraits of Chelsea Manning were generated algorithmically from an analysis of her DNA. Despite being in prison with no visitation rights, the famed whistleblower managed to send the artist mouth swabs of her DNA, from which these portraits were then created. By graphically illustrating how DNA analysis can lead to multiple interpretations, the piece underscores the highly subjective nature subjective nature of DNA decoding and rebuffs the notion that identity is biologically defined and described.

 

All Stainless Steel Stairs and Floors

Moon Over Madrid

Eduardo Guerrero

In the morning we were treated to a special experience. The last time we stayed at The Principal Hotel, we had the same suite. It looks out over the city, and we could observe the restoration of a beautiful building directly across the street. The building is topped by a giant classical winged statue. All of it was shrouded in scaffolding and cloth. Today during breakfast, we looked out the window and there were workers removing the scaffolding. I am sure it will be a several days process. However, we got to see the unveiling of the restored statue. The workers were like monkeys as they worked. They wore safety harnesses and attached themselves to the scaffolding as they worked. It is back breaking work I am sure, but also looked like kind of macho fun.

We spent most of the afternoon at CaixaForum. The Caixa Foundation supports culture throughout Spain. This very modern building houses was created from an abandoned power station. One side of the building is an enormous vertical garden. The floors and stairways are stainless steel!

We came to see an exhibit right up our alley: Spies and Cinema. This exhibition explores the relationships between cinema and espionage, between fiction and historical facts, between the props and the technology used by spies, from Mata Hari to Carrie Mathison or Malotru, through James Bond and Edward Snowden. It is extensive and we both wondered if it would come to the Academy Museum in LA one day. Cathy thought it needed more focus, I enjoyed the variety of exhibits. The documentation was in English and Spanish and very good.

There were lots of clips from movies, illustrating reoccurring motifs in spy and espionage movies. Much of the language of these films were established by Alfred Hitchcock. Once again, I wondered if todays younger generations (which at my age includes about everybody) will ever watch those classic movies and if they do will they be watching them on their iPhones.

We returned to our hotel for our daily Siesta, we could get into this Madrid lifestyle.

Post siesta it was time for cocktails. Had a third bartender (I wish they could keep the same one on duty). This one failed in his Martini making. We then had red sweet Vermouth which makes for a great pre-dinner elixir.

We then went to a Flamenco show and dinner at Corral de la Morería. I know a dinner show sounds corny and touristy but believe me this one isn’t. The dancing is sexy and fantastic. We loved it as did everyone. The lead dancer Eduardo Guerrero is amazing, charismatic, sexy and quite a showman. We are officially on Spanish time. The show ended at midnight! You definitely should watch some clips on YouTube, or click on the link above.

 

Vermouth is Medicinal

Happy Customer

Another Happy Customer

Beautiful Brick Work

Great idea, they use half of a cork as a chopstick holder

Best Part of the shave

Straight Razor Shave, smooth as a baby's ass

Version # 1

Version More than 1

Like a Spaniard, drinking Vermouth

Four types of Tomatoes with 4 different Olive Oils 

Perhaps the best part of this vacation, is the break from our quotidian lifestyle. We aren’t on anyone else’s schedule. A typical day for us is me seeing tons of reminders of tasks to do on my computer or iPhone, Cathy researching dinners to make, creating shopping lists, etc. Habits formed about exercise, gathering mail, retrieving, and reading newspapers, doing laundry, washing dishes, you get it. On vacation it is all put aside, we are free agents. 

 

I often joke that Parsifal, our cat, only thinks of one thing: How can I have more pleasure than I am currently. When he figures it out, he does it. It might be moving to lie in our laps or going outside to sit in the sun, eating, whatever will make him happier. He is simply a pleasure-seeking animal. That is what this vacation is for us. No tour schedule just relaxing and do what we want on our schedule.

 

We finally decided to walk in our neighborhood and browse the stores. We found a small Japanese clothing store and each of us found a perfect garment. We continued our random tour and were thirsty and decided to go into a small restaurant for a Coke. It turned out to be a tiny very hip Japanese restaurant. They had a very clever idea that we have never previously observed. They sliced corks in half lengthwise and used them as chopstick holders. We will do the same upon returning  home. God knows we have enough corks!

 

I always like going to a real barber that knows how to do a real wet shave. First he covers your face with a salve then applys hot towels, finally when the skin is hot and moist applying lather and shaving with a straight edge blade. I always wish my dad had taught me how to use a straight edge. If I tried now I know I would inadvertently cut my juggler vein! Safety razor only for me.

 

We then walked to the Foundation Mapfre. The foundation supports all kinds of Art, and Social Awareness programs. Currently the foundation had 3 exhibits. To us the most profound was an artist we have never heard of before: Medardo Rosso. He was a sculpture who often worked from pictures of his subjects. He would make multiple copies of the sculpture changing his technique and materials. He thought sculptures should be like pictures or photos and only observed from the front. He was highly influential but not widely known. You might want to read about him. We liked his work.

 

A second exhibit was of a Spanish Painter Joaquín Sorolla. A Spanish Painter that painted beach scenes.

 

The third exhibit was of a current day photographer Mathieu Pernot. They have many of his photos, most very large size, some in color others black and white. He documents the destruction of war, people in prison, the dynamiting of buildings etc. Not exactly happy events but he is a whiteness to the world’s suffering.

 

This being Spain, we returned to the hotel for our siesta and see if Juan remembers how to make a proper Martini.

Unfortunately, Juan wasn’t on duty tonight. I had an inferior martini but I didn’t want to educate a different bartender. We did research that stated that Vermouth was a great digestive. So we switched to the national drink of Spain: Vermouth and it was quite delicious and possibly medicinal! We did our usual Facetime with Barbara all is well in San Francisco.

 

We had planned to go to Tapas restaurant but then decided we would just wing it in our neighborhood. Cathy’s stomach was a little off, so we decided to go for Grilled Chicken at a restaurant, near our hotel. We asked the doorman if he could recommend a tapas restaurant, we could go to first before we would go for our chicken. He suggested a nearby restaurant: Celso-Manolo. We intended to have a drink maybe a tapas and then go for chicken. We sat at the bar and started with Vermouth and a fantastic Tomato Salad composed of four different tomato varieties served with four different olive oils. After eating the tomatoes and drinking our Vermouth, we decided to order a bottle of wine and have dinner there. It was a wise decision. The place is friendly, and the food was great! It was an easy walk back to the hotel. We might very well return to Celso-Manolo again on this vacation.

 

Drink, Eat, Sleep..Rinse and Repeat

El Rastro Flea Market

Doggie Station outside of market

Typical Architecture in the Chueca

Cats and Thai Food, how cute

Dog Poop Bin

Israeli Mezze

Sea Bass

We took a taxi to the giant outdoor flea market called: El Rastro. Think of it as an incredible garage sale of all things you couldn’t give away to anyone. I had the feeling all the vendors are buying and selling to each other. I didn’t see anything I could conceivably want. But as the used car salesman said: “There is an ass for every seat”. So, I assume there are people who buy things at the flea market.

 

We then took a long walk around the Chueca neighborhood. We really enjoy staying in this area. It is Sunday so most of the boutique stores are closed but tomorrow they will be open and ready to receive us. We love the architecture. Since there are no private residences in this area, everyone lives in apartments and they all come out in the sunshine, many walking their dogs. We liked the dog station outside the market and the poop containers on the street.

 

We walked quite a lot returned to our hotel and like true Spaniards took a siesta. It seems to be the Madrid way: Eat, Drink, sleep and repeat.

 

Upon awakening it was cocktail hour. I decided I shouldn’t give up on martinis in Madrid. Cathy had wine, but I told the bartender I wanted to watch and improve his martini making skills. The problem, I believe is the Spanish love their Vermouth. This causes them to not understand the delicate relationship between Vermouth and Gin needed to make a proper Martini. Under my supervision, he minimized the Vermouth and maximized the Gin. It was superb! I am not sure he enjoyed the direct supervision, but I am sure the generous tip ameliorated any hurt feelings.

 

Since it is the Yom Kipper, we decided to go to an Argentinian-Israeli restaurant. We had great Mezze and grilled Sea Bass. It wasn’t our traditional Matzah Ball Soup and Brisket, but if fortified us for the New Year.